Lake Maggiore
Directions for finding it
Lake Maggiore, also known as Lake Verbano, is in northern Italy. Its banks belong to Lombardy (province of Varese), Piedmont (provinces of Novara and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola) and, in the northern part, to Switzerland. It is about ninety km from Milan.
Geomorphological features
It is Italy's second largest lake, after Lake Garda. It the most westerly of the prealpine lakes that characterise northern Italy and is part of a complex catchment basin which also includes the nearby Lake Orta and Lake Lugano. Its central position and its connection to the organised road network means that it can be reached quickly and comfortably from northern Italy's main cities for a holiday or a weekend trip.
Famous personalities
“Nothing in the world can be compared to the charm of these days spent at the lakes (…) in the chestnut woods, so green that they seem to dip their branches into the water…”. Thus wrote Stendhal in his “History of Painting in Italy”, charmed by the vast, majestic stretches of water, by the luxuriant vegetation and the harmony of the architecture reflected in the deep green-blue waters. For its spectacular landscapes and its particularly mild climate Lake Maggiore has been a tourist destination since the days of the Grand Tour, a sought-after destination for nobles, aristocrats and artists in search of peace, quiet and beauty. Between the 1700s and the 1900s villas and luxuriant gardens, Grand Hotels and Liberty buildings sprouted up along its banks – above all in the stretch between Arona, Stresa and Intra - and its success was assured as a favourite destination for travellers from Italy and abroad. A great number of famous personalities (from intellectuals to crowned heads of state) have spent long relaxing holidays here. The great orchestra conductor Arturo Toscanini (who had his retreat on the Isola di San Giovanni Battista just off Pallanza) found the Borromean Islands charming and took his friends and guests there -artists and literary figures such as the writer Ernest Hemingway; it was also favoured by writer George Bernard Shaw, by the Emperor of Japan and, in more recent times, by the British royal family. During the Belle Époque Stresa rivalled Monte Carlo, and often saw the presence of the philosopher Antonio Rosmini and Elizabeth of Saxony, Duchess of Genoa. Guests at the Belgirate home of Milanese publisher Enrico Treves included not only Stendhal but, Giovanni Verga, Edmondo De Amicis, Gabriele d’Annunzio and many other writers and literary figures of the 19th and 20th centuries.
What to see
Surrounded by impressive mountains and green hills, Lake Maggiore was dominated for centuries by prestigious Italian families such as the Borromeo and the Visconti, who fortified it with castles (such as the impressive and charming fortresses in Angera and Arona) and built villas with elaborate gardens. And so it is not only its enchanting landscapes, but its wealth of history and art that make the lake such a magical place, so much so that it was defined by the French poet Montesquieu as "the most beautiful place in the word.” Adding to its charm are the islands, little worlds unto themselves: the famous Borromean Islands in the gulf of the same name (the Isola Bella with its 17th century Palazzo Borromeo surrounded by spectacular gardens, the picturesque Isola dei Pescatori and the Isola Madre, known for its botanical gardens featuring a wealth of rare plants), the Isola di San Giovanni just off Pallanza and the islands that are home to the castles of Cannero. The Borromean gulf, from Stresa to Pallanza, is the geographical and tourist heart of the lake.
At the northern end of Lake Verbano the landscape changes: the lake narrows, the villages become farther apart, and the coastline is more jagged. This is where we find Cannobbio, the last Italian town before the Swiss border. The next town is Locarno, in Switzerland. The shoreline then bends towards the eastern riviera, back into Italian territory. This is the Lombard bank of the lake, with Luino, a delightful, quiet holiday resort, Laveno, Ispra and Angera, overlooked by the impressive fortress, Rocca Borromea.
What to do
Enjoying the lake from the water is an experience not to be missed. The main resort towns are connected by ferryboats and a variety of excursions of different lengths are offered to allow visitors to discover the most famous as well as the lesser-known places. The most classic boat trip is to the Borromean Islands. Sports and leisure: there is no shortage of opportunities to practise a considerable variety of sports, from the most traditional to the most extreme (hang-gliding, canoeing, windsurfing, paragliding and microlights...), made all the more thrilling by the dramatic scenery. The breeze, the silence of the gently rippling waters and total immersion in nature make Lake Verbano one of the most spectacular places in the world for sailing, whether at the competitive or amateur level, and its greens are a lure to golfers.
A rich and varied series of events of international appeal enliven the calendar throughout the year, increasing in number between late spring and the end of summer. Visitors should try to be here for miss include musical and cultural events such as the Musical Weeks and the Grinzane Cinema Festival in Stresa and flower shows such as the Camellia Exhibition and the Corso Fiorito in Verbania.
Accommodation advice
Stay at one of the Grand Hotels that face the lake, for which Lake Verbano has been renowned since the 19th century, to relive the sophisticated and exclusive atmosphere of the Belle Époque. Art nouveau architecture and elegant details, in the splendid natural setting of the lake, make these luxurious hotels truly unique. Alongside the Grand Hotels there is no lack of small family-run hotels, even in the smaller towns, often with views over the lake. And for outdoorsy types, there are plenty of well-equipped campsites.
Gastronomy
Varied, immaginative and particularly flavoursome, the gastronomy of Lake Maggiore brings together lakeside and mountain dishes, recipes from Lombardy and Piedmont. Traditional lake-side cuisineincludes fish-based dishes, from perch to pike and trout, served in simple and delicate recipes that bring out the flavour. Further inland the food reveals the influence of Piedmont: spiced meats, roasts, and game are the main items on the menu, as well as of course the typical “bagna cauda”, a sauce made of oil and garlic served with seasonal vegetables to dip into it. From the mountains that frame Lake Verbano, we come to the traditional dishes of the mountain valleys; strong flavours, featuring the classic polenta garnished according to the cook's fancy, an essential accompaniment for several courses and simple and tasty desserts, perhaps served with the berries that grow abundantly in the valley. And finally, the cheeses, a real delight: the famous Gorgonzola, Toma cheese and the rare Bettelmatt.
